Bang on an outfit post. Is long enough for my last outfit look since I decided to write about some fashion week review. I wanted this blog to not just focus on outfits looks but also writing about fashion news and catwalk trend. This is my recent sportswear style look, I think sportswear is definitely one of a key trend in this year. Looking back to different catwalks, you can spotted a lot of the designers relinquished heels to sneakers, Chanel AW14 is one of the best example you can find. For me I like to play the look with classy style that I paired with an oversized jeans to add more statement where a cool cap can also give you more define on the look too. I hoped you guys will have more ideas on trying out this look and have fun.
老實說通過這次倫敦時裝週令我認識了不少新銳設計師而Shao Yen — 陳劭彥是其中一位。毫無疑問他本季的設計是跟水相關。因為發報會場地充斥着如海草般的枯枝，同時亦播著一段像是海深的影片，而模特兒的髮型是故意弄濕的，穿的鞋也是水靴為主，當初以為系列是跟海洋有關。 但當我再看到邀請卡上寫著ripple就知道原來Shao Yen的設計是跟漣漪為主。非常有意境的文字。（題外話設計師通常會在邀請卡上帶出他們設計的主題，往往可以從那找出不少蛛絲馬跡！）
It was a painful day on LFW day two. I got eight shows and presentations on one day. They started at 10 in the morning till 10 at night it took 12 hours to finish the day. After the day I can conclude a fashion journalist or even blogger was much harder than what I think. The job was not just sit and watch the show. Likewise, I was queuing outside fashion scout for two hours but for nothing. Because it was too crowded inside the show where people were not allow to go in. Well nowadays, the shows can be review online after or some do live-stream shows but it was so different compare to the atmosphere. It is much better to join the show they are awesome!
Here are my top four designers report after day two. Sorry for a bit late since I got deadlines at school but now my holiday has kicked off so I guess I will have more time to run the blog.
My top favourite designer of the day is Xiao Li – The Merit Award winner. Long before, her work was approached on Ligature Magazine (the magazine I worked for) that was the very first time I saw her last season’s collection (SS14). They were themed with oversized knitwear with candy pastel colors. They were well enough to draw my attention to this designer back to the time. This season, when I received her invitation I had already looking forward to it since her last collection was exciting. Sure enough, she did not let me down that she is well deserved for the Merit Award. The entire collection is full of surprises. My favorite music band Daft Punk’s song – Get Lucky remix version had lifted off the show. When you thought this kind of pop electronic music is in line with skirmisher style you would be totally wrong. Xiao Li transform the whole song with a slow and soft girl’s voice. The collection covered with variety of blue: sky blue , dark blue and light blue… most of them are mixed with white net fabric which immediately emerged a fantasy feeling . When a new remix version of Get Lucky is playing , the rhythm and the beat of the music had exceptionally match with the garment. The models were like fairy tales walking down to the sea of clouds. The design have flowed with girly style where models had light pink hair and makeup; the princess sleeve dress and fishtail style like skirts. These kind of features have brought a young lively feel. Also when you look carefully you can spot some last season trait mark – the knitting techniques. The knitting sleeves was utilized on the oversize motorcycle jacket. Most design had added a square white spiked to decorate the edge. The biggest surprise is the final piece of her work where she added few blue LED lights in her design. The piece had the audience in awe that reaffirmed Xiao Li as the innovative designer she is and brought her design vision and craftsmanship to the forefront.
Yifang Wan‘s collection inspired by the artist and sculptor working environment that simple and comfortable feeling were crucial in the collection. Wan used her signature fine cutting techniques which showed clear silhouettes and highlight her streamlined tailoring skills. The whole collection sparked with symmetrical cutting and paired with gorgeous palette of shimmering yale blue, lilac, dark teal, burgundy, stone and black that complimented each outfit perfectly. Obviously it can tell Wan wanted to bring a clean and chic style. The models were wearing all back hairstyle where it implied a feminine and elegant sense. The used of cool colors tone had completely brought allurement and classy style. In contrast with Xiao Li girlish style, Wan is clearly targeted on mature women. Her design were either in deep v-neck dips or side slits with soft wool and mohair knit. Wan also added some charms on the deep navy coats and jacket speckled with gleaming silver fleck to highlighted her collection.
Born in a wealthy background that her family-owned business is more than billion. Although she is taking care of the family business but at the same time she never give up to pursue fashion. Due to the fact that Kaul admires the vintage glamour a lot that her AW14 collection had elements of 50s the ‘New Look’ at the meanwhile she added her own designs too. Back to the 50s it was the golden age of the rise of fashion industry. The status of women had more values and the designer had seized this point. She encouraged women to step out to the limelight era, charm, liberty and female form through celebrated modern aesthetic Kaul. Ball gown dress and suit enchanted with scintillating embroidery and Indian embellishments. They are mixed with different colors (champagne, olive green, sliver) with Kaul’s signature lace and silk detailing prevailed throughout which characterised much of the collection’s feminine mystique.
Min Wu opened her collection with presentation style. The venue was decorated with multiple large white helium balloon. A short film was played before the show to kick off. The film showed different colors of ink were dip into water where it gradually faded. I did not understand what Wu was trying to tell at the first, later I found out that she wanted the audience be more aware to faded colour design. The first models appeared with tangerine melded seamlessly into the cream and white of the garments like flashes of a beautiful sunset through the clouds. It debuted with neoprene fabric which lead more three-dimensional visual sense on the model. Throughout the collection, my favorite piece is a short sky blue jacket fading from blue to white. When you try to look at the jacket in different ankle, the jacket’s sleeves were pleated that made an interesting textural collage. The front of the chest of the jacket has a little three-dimensional design was a key too. One of the stars of the show were the 3D earrings. They were cool and chic that made a more completed look to each pieces. The whole collection was shinning with bright colour platte that give a very strong summer flavor in Min Wu AW14 collection.
第一位個人最愛的Day Two秀，是獲得Merit Award的得獎者 – 李筱，Xiao Li。
早在很久之前已經留意過她的設計，第一次看到她的設計是在我家雜誌上，她在我們的專欄上，上一季以柔和顏色為主的棉花糖大毛衣，已經令我開始關注到她。所以今次去看她的秀也盼予了不少期待。果然得到Merit Award的她真是名不虛傳，沒令我失望，整個系列充滿了驚喜。非常喜歡！當天在秀場插着我最愛的樂隊Daft Punk – Get Lucky remix版來掀起序幕。當你以為Get Lucky的搖滾樂曲是為了配合前衛的朋克設計那就大錯特錯，因為正好相反。整曲換成了女孩的聲音加上柔慢的感覺。整系列採用了多種藍色(如天藍，深藍和淺藍色等)，大多數也是混上以白色為主的網布，程現出夢幻的感覺。當新混的Get Lucky播放時，你會覺得整首歌跟衣服非常的撘，模特兒一步一步走著時完全是跟着音樂的節奏而跳動. 就好像仙女走在雲層上飄浮似的。李筱亦為系列中添加了幾番少女味，例如是模特兒以淺粉紅色的秀髮和彩妝走在T台上、公主袖、魚尾短裙及工人褲等, 這些特點都帶來年輕、活潑的感覺。另外仔細留意會發現一些上季系列的技巧，如oversize的摩托車外套上會發現衣袖上運用了上季的針織技術。而大部份的衣服邊緣上也加上方形白色柳釘來點綴。最大的驚喜就是最後一件的出場作品，當模特兒走了半圈T台時燈光卻突然變暗著，大家也驚訝起來，原來是因為李筱在外套上加了LED小藍燈，秀場暗著時，衣服卻亮著，這為整系列看來更加完美，程現了畫龍點睛的效果。
家族擁有多億生意王國的迪拜後裔設計師，雖然親自打理家族企業，但同時卻有著一顆熱切的時裝心！因為設計師本身很欣賞50，60和70年代風格的衣著，所以Kaul把50年代的New Look元素加進自己的設計裏。當時正是時裝業興起的黃金時代，女性地位提昇，設計師正正捉住這些，集合了這些元素，如長身的禮服裙(ball gown) 和套裝，配上個人的色彩，俏皮花邊，絲綢，薄紗和印度小裝飾充滿了異國情調和迷人的視覺較果。設計重點在於如何配合女性的身體，希望任何一個身形都可以穿，展示女性獨特的每一面。
Here come to the London Fashion Week day one post. I decided to type in Chinese and English just to benefits some Chinese readers and myself as I would like to practice my Chinese writing too. For every post from now on there will be in Chinese and English version although it can spend me awful 10 hours to type in Chinese (barely know the slowest Chinese typing method…will start to learn another way).
If you followed my Instagram, Twitter or Weibo (please follow, they will be updated frequently) or already read my Chinese version post, you will noticed I have been to the most exciting fashion event – London Fashion Week. I feel so blessed this year as I got a lot of shows or presentation invitation from the magazine I worked for (Ligature Magazine, special thanks to Sarah). Flash back to last year this time, I only got chance to go to the London Fashion Weekend. This year I could attended the London Fashion Week, Fashion Scout. Most of the shows and presentations are from newly designers (mostly are freshly graduated). Every designers have established their own draping skills and eclectic style. I can also see they have huge potential that will become a future star in their path. This post will be focus to the day one catwalk show I attended since I participated four days shows if I write them all in one go it will be quite long.
First day, I received three shows tickets to rock. But at the end only went to see the One To Watch show at Fashion Scout. Due to my nervousness of picking what to wear. But after going the Ones To Watch show immediately felt earned. During the show, I discovered the creative director of from LCF and spotted my favorite blogger: Susie Bubble. Did not think they would come to this show together which make me look forwarded more to this show. Ones To Watch is composed by four designers’ collections in one go that’s why it called Ones To Watch. The show had grouped the most inventiveness designers together. It doesn’t just include the local designers also international designer will be featured. The best three will be on display with show sponsors. So every year Ones To Watch designers are different. And the Aw14/15 Ones To Watch show designers are Carrie-Ann Stein; George Styler; Hiroko Nakaajima and Sarah Ryan.
After the vibrant, some lively music has played. The venue immediately became hushed everyone have their camera or phone on hand and ready to snap the first model from the spark. The first appearance are from Sarah Ryan’s collection. One of my favorite among the four designers. The whole collection are black and white based though it can be relatively dull. But surprisingly because Ryan build her own knit cable style which draw a huge effect to the full collection that making it more standout. Most of her collection is based on a crop top and knee-length skirt there are some one pieces alongside. For the entire collection highlights, Ryan also take into account of her knit establishment. She approached them in shoes and bags to join the textile elements together. Giant knit backpack is one of the eye-catching piece. When the model carries the knapsack we are all delighted about the pack. While Ryan also added special effect with the knitted tassel skirt which made the entire collection more striking.
Second designer to kick off the show is Carrie-Ann Stein who also involved in Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase last year. She graduated from Central Saint Martins. This time Stein brought her strength again to the catwalk. Stein called her collection as Postcards from Black Pool. Inspired by the Black Pool street signs and flags to themes the garments. Most pieces are exaggerated oversize coat or one pieces. The square silhouettes drive with hole punch at the edge, a very unique design. The style matched with ankle height black stockings with silver stiletto heel. When the first model entry the catwalk, it brought me to some futuristic movies. I guess is because her hair style and the neon writing print on the bodycon. Besides Stein took a good care to people who aren’t overblown. There are some statement pieces such as the A-line skirt, vest and sweater top which are refreshingly wearable. Before Stein was train as corporate law but gave up to pursue her designer dreams . I believe her decision was right as she graduated with first honour in her degree.
Also a Central Saint Martins graduated, hails from Japan but London based designer Hiroko Nakajima showcase her collection with her philosophy about the graphic. It can tell Nakajima has install her graphic theory into her collection. Throughout her pieces they are theme with matte shades and geometric curve. The collection are draped symmetrically trait with bodycon cashmere dresses. Nakejima has added some fun element such as the knit conical cap and mini geometric clutch which could work bizarre but they worked incredibly beautiful. Nakajima’s collection some how remind me about the David Bowie Ziggy Stardust styling especially the colour and geometric curve design. I wonder if we have the same feeling?
Finally George Styler bring the end to the show. The entire collection bloom with ethno style such as gold and silver head pieces and vivid colour floral print pattern. At the first sight the apparel hit me with the traditional Mongolia ethnic garment style. But after reading an interview about Styler’s collection I found out he was inspired by South America, Africa and the Balkans with a touch of punk. He combined these and add them with his personal modern design to complete the collection. He used past, present and future techniques which made it more diversity. The costumes are associated with variety types. It covered from the A -line and mini skirt, bodysuit and ethnic printed leg warmers etc they are all inclusive. Another surprised was the spiky texture jacket and dress which highlights his whole collection. It is a very special technique I never seen in other pieces they are fascinating! If we look closer to the collection we can see how Styler has secretly brought the punk stylein his work. Such as the T shape dress with an abstracted wide shoulders dress; the pink hooded cape coat which is a fundamental style in recent. Styler also added some spoof artwork prints such as the Da Vinci famous portrait – Mona Lisa with her hand up showing her extra happiness and the couple fishes which brought a sense of humour to his collection. These factors made the collection more fun and adorable, this sort of remind me Jeremy Scott (the recent Moschino collection)!
More posts about London Fashion will be coming, please stay tune with my blog!
Ones To Watch Designers’ Pieces are showcase at the entrance at Fashion Scout
The catwalk and behind the scenes video from Youtube